All Culinary Artist Ought to Study Here’: Humble Turkish Eatery Secures Fourth on Ranking of London’s Leading Restaurants.

When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their small place achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.

Kevin Smith
Kevin Smith

Tech journalist and digital strategist with a passion for emerging technologies and their real-world applications.

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